Taiwan On in the Fern Kingdom

Asia was never on my bucket list. It felt too far, too foreign. I didn’t understand the language and couldn’t read the writing. And with China’s persistent threats to invade, Taiwan seemed a little intimidating.

But JD kept asking. With Luanne’s encouragement and Vicky’s superb planning, I finally agreed. Vicky turned out to be a master tour guide—coordinating our schedule, booking every reservation, and serving as chauffeur, guide, and translator. I’m so grateful I overcame my fears and boarded that 23-hour flight.

What I found was a country of extraordinary kindness. The people were warm and generous, and crime felt practically nonexistent. The only mention of it came from our driver in Taipei, who warned us to be wary of a few pickpockets—“foreigners,” he said—on the old streets of Jiufen.

For a tiny island no larger than Maryland, Taiwan packs a remarkable punch. Known as the “Fern Kingdom” for its 820+ species of ferns, it is also home to more than 500 varieties of orchids. This land of earthquakes and tsunamis is one of breathtaking beauty and striking contrasts: soaring mountains and wide beaches, tea farms and rice fields, cutting-edge technology and ancient traditions, night markets and Michelin-starred restaurants, modern cities and rural villages. We were fortunate to see Cloud Lakes and Jesus Light and very fortunate not to see the deadly poisonous 100 Step Snake.

We sipped boba tea with pineapple cakes, caught a whiff of stinky tofu, and devoured crunchy, candy-coated tomatoes on a stick. We made our own chopsticks, wandered through lavender forests, and explored elaborate temples. We rode a train through an ancient forest of giant cypress trees, listened to music played on traditional instruments, braved two splashy water rides, and soared above tea fields in a gondola. A robot, Oona, showed us to our table at Din Tai Fung 101, we designed our own stamps with Chinese characters at Ri Xing Type Foundry and enjoyed a champagne brunch with oysters and Russian caviar.

We visited an artist who painted our names in traditional Chinese characters, strolled down old streets glowing with hand-painted lanterns, met the owner of the uniquely beautiful Jodobe bar, and stood beneath the towering Taipei 101. We stayed in sumptuous resorts and cozy B&Bs, ate traditional Indigenous cuisine authentically prepared, and watched native dancers bring their heritage to life. We celebrated Vicky’s birthday and welcomed the Chinese Year of the Fire Horse. And yes—we indulged in two blissful two-hour massages.

It was, without question, the trip of a lifetime.